World's Best Compost

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Are you having trouble getting your plants to bloom out in all their glory? If so, you may want to read this review. If you are into gardening, then you are more than aware of the importance of good compost. For it is the compost that provides your plants with the essential nutrients, of course, you could go the 'toxic route' or anything similar. But if you need your plants to bloom naturally, it is always better to do it with good compost than with a chemical fertilizer hot out of a chemical plant. Natural is in and everything else is out, especially if you expect your plants to grow naturally. No good comes out of artificial stuff and sooner than later, you will be bound to come across a whole range of problems if chemical fertilizers are your stuff. Try out the e-book, the world's best compost as it shows you how to get the best out of your plants the natural way.

The world's best compost is all about developing your own compost, without having to hold your breath in. Yeah, as hard as it may seem to believe, this compost method does not stink to the high heavens and you do not need to turn it over either. Every greenhouse needs a good compost to get the best out of the plants, be it roses or orchids. If you are an orchid buff, you probably would not mind splurging a bit on the latest chemical fertilizer. However, before you do so, you may want to consider the long term effects on your orchids due to large scale use of the fertilizer on your part. It is better to stick with natural products and world's best compost, for with the compost method listed here; your plants will start to shine in no time at all.

This book comes packed with all the information that you need in order to develop /make your own colloidal humus compost. The humus compost is the better version of the traditional compost in the sense that it does not stink or does it require to be turned over once in a while. I guess, it is the easy take on the traditional compost methods and this e-book should show you just how to go about it as it comes packed with information, diagrams and photographs to show you exactly how to make your own.

This book is written in an easy-to-understand format so you should have no issues in making sense of it. The process is fairly easy and the only requirement is that you have some basic gardening know-how. So, if you are looking for natural ways to get your plants to bloom, you may want to give this book a second look.

Reuben Wallis has reviewed Rod Turner's e-book the worlds best compost. For a detailed take on growing plants naturally, do click on worlds best compost reviews.

Squash Vine Borer Controlling

Recently a grower from the UK sent us a photo of damage to a pumpkin janick plant and wanted to know what it was and whether it could be controlled. This pest had apparently been a problem for a long time, to the extent that it was questionable whether it was worthwhile planting pumpkins or squashes Kiwi.

Like all vegetables, pumpkins and squashes are no strangers to disease and bugs. Squash Vine Borer (Melittia cucurbitae), which is what was preventing our pumpkins, grower's is only one of the range of pests that affects members of the cucurbit family (members of which include pumpkins, squashes, zucchinis, cucumbers, melons etc). Besides the Squash vine borer lives UK in most temperate areas of North America, although not on the Pacific Coast. This pest is renowned for the fact that you cannot see it until it is too late (when the plant is wilted and does not recover when watered). Close examinations will reveal that the stem has been severed just above ground level.

Symptoms

When you examine the base of affected plants, you will notice a small hole and some frass (sawdust-like droppings). The hole is a sign of the presence of the Squash Vine Borer. If there are multiple numbers of borers, these pests can actually cause the stem to break-especially if it is colder-or to rot, depending on the weather. The injury will also prevent the plant from taking up water and nutrients, which will ultimately cause it to die.

The Squash Vine Borer is the larvae of a species of black moth that attacks both wild and cultivated varieties of squash. The moth looks like a bee or wasp because of its movements, and the bright orange scales on its hind legs. It has a wing span or around 25 to 37 mm (1-11/2). The females usually reddish-brown lay eggs on the leaves, and when they hatch the larvae bore their way into the base of the stem? the larvae feed on and inside the stalk, eventually killing the leaf. From the leaf, the caterpillars migrate to the main stem, and with enough feeding damage to the stem, the entire plant may die.

Squash Vine Borers can affect hubbard squash, gourds, pumpkins, zucchinis and other squashes. It is not common to find them on cucumbers or melons. Control Squash Vine Borer Gardeners find a difficult pest to combat. Some try to avoid it by timing the production season to harvest before the pests can build up, or after they have peaked. However, there are cultural control measures that can be implemented.

Squash Vine Borers As overwinter in the soil as larvae in cocoons, removing and destroying old vines after harvesting will help. Tilling the soil will also help to destroy any cocoons that may be there. Birds will also assist you with this job once the soil is tilled.

Once your crop is planted, if you are vigilant, you may be able to remove eggs when they appear. As the larvae bore into the stem usually close to ground level, a paper or other wrapping at the base of the stem may assist as a barrier. If you notice the plant wilting or a hole at the base of the stem, it is possible (if you are very careful) to slit open the stem and remove the larvae, and then cover the stem with dry soil so that it can grow more roots. In fact if you notice a hole, you can even just pile some dry soil over the affected area to try and promote new root growth so that the plant will not die.

An old trick for growing pumpkins and squash is to cover the vine with earth at various points along its length, inducing rooting at several points, thereby continuing to feed the developing fruit despite the loss of the original stem. After the vine has taken root at multiple points, the infected portion of the plant can be cut off, along with another inch where the larvae is eating into healthy tissue, without significant damage to the plant. Row covers are another option that can be used up until bloom.

Some gardeners use pesticides, but these are ineffective after the larvae are inside the plant. It is also not recommended as these pesticides used to kill the adult moth may contaminate the flowers and the East kill pollinators through poisoned nectar or pollen.

Lucia Grimmer is the main author of best selling books How to Grow Juicy Tasty Tomatoes and How to Grow Good Potatoes.

Lucia Grimmer is a world renowned expert in plant disease and nutrition who trains horticulturists, agronomists and professional growers. She has won awards for her technical papers and regularly conducts trials on a range of crops with the objective of improving yield and reducing disease.

Co-author Annette Welsford also has a horticultural background, however her true skills like with taking complex technical information and representing it so that even novice gardeners find it easy to understand.

Their books are considered to be the authoritative "bibles" on Growing Tomatoes and Growing Potatoes and have sold to thousands of novice and professional gardeners in 85 countries, and have been featured on TV, radio and leading gardening publications in 4 continents.